
The second seating in the diner of the City of New Orleans is just getting underway as the trains heads north through the Mississippi delta country on March 20, 2009.
Just over a week ago, my wife and I returned from an Amtrak trip between our home in Cleveland and New Orleans. The journey covered more than 2,500 miles and involved riding the Capitol Limited between Cleveland and Chicago, and the City of New Orleans between Chicago and the Big Easy. Here are a few observations about our excursion.
Timekeeping was pretty good on all trains. No. 29 was seven minutes late arriving in Cleveland, but that was largely because the train had to do a run-around move and then back into the station. Arrival in Chicago was 31 minutes early. No. 59 reached New Orleans 48 minutes early and No. 58 halted at Chicago Union Station 15 minutes early. The eastbound Capitol Limited was three minutes late arriving in Cleveland.
To be sure, schedule padding had a lot to do with the early arrivals at the terminal points. No. 59 was late departing every station except Homewood and Jackson. The other three trains were often late at intermediate points, as much as 44 minutes late leaving Newbern on the southbound City of New Orleans.
Granted, I was asleep during many hours of our journeys, but I noted very little freight train interference en route. The longest delay we incurred was when the northbound City of New Orleans sat for a while next to the New Orleans airport waiting for the southbound City to clear the single track ahead.
Upon leaving Memphis on No. 58, I heard the CN dispatcher tell our engineer on the radio that a freight would be in the siding at Tipton and that we might catch up with another freight ahead of us and experience a slight delay. I’m not sure if that was the case or not.
Arguably, it helped that the track work season has yet to start in earnest. There was no severe weather to contend with. We traveled in March and in my experience that’s a good month to ride Amtrak. Perhaps with the recession there are fewer freight trains to get in the way. Still, it seemed that the dispatching provided by the host railroads has improved.
I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the meal service in the dining cars. Amtrak seems to slowly be upgrading food quality and perhaps the worst of the “diner lite” era is over. On the Capitol Limited to Chicago, I noted that you have something of a choice with the omelet. Last September when I rode the Capitol you had no choice because, I was told, the omelet was made from a mix and you could not leave anything out that you didn’t want.
It was my first experience with the cross country diner on the City of New Orleans and I couldn’t tell any difference in the quality of food or service in this car compared with other Amtrak diners. I did note, though, that the New Orleans style cuisine touted in the Amtrak timetable did not live up to its billing. There was no bread pudding in either direction, no jambalaya or red beans and rice. The menu did feature seafood gumbo, which I did not try.
The diner on the southbound trip did not have the chef’s special of crab cakes. The server claimed that those are put on by the commissary in New Orleans, which had failed to stock the diner well enough for the trip to Chicago and return. The crab cakes were
available on the northbound trip. I found them quite good, accompanied by a very tasty sauce. Sure, the crab cakes were not as good as the one I had in a French Quarter bistro, but given what Amtrak has to work with that is probably not a fair comparison. It was good enough that I ordered the crab cakes on the Capitol Limited.
For the most part, the menu on the City of New Orleans was the same as that on the Capitol Limited, but with some variation. The City offered a cheddar and broccoli quiche at breakfast that was more like a casserole. It was so good that I ordered it twice. This offering was not available on the Capitol Limited, whose catch of the day at dinner was Mahi Mahi as opposed to salmon on the City of New Orleans. I sampled the salmon on the southbound trip and found it good, although not great. It was enhanced with a nice sauce and garlic mashed potatoes. The latter tasted like homemade, not instant.
On all four trains, we had diners set up in the new configuration. I’m not sure what to think about this. Yes, it does give the diner a non-traditional look, but if you draw one of the short tables, you wind up sitting with your back to the window. That I didn’t like. Yes, I could see out the window on the opposite side of the car, but that required looking over someone else’s table.
I wonder if this new seating arrangement has reduced the capacity of the diner. That did not appear to be much of a problem on the City of New Orleans, but was an issue on the Capitol Limited. Shortly after leaving Chicago, a dining car employee announced he would soon come through the coaches to take dinner reservations with the earliest seating at 9 p.m. The train departs Chicago at 7:05 p.m. Serving begins as early as 6:30 p.m. but sleeping car passengers get first crack at reservations. With three sleepers on the train, there are a lot of first class passengers to feed.
The dining car guy never did come through the coaches to take reservations. When he announced the 9 p.m. seating, he apparently said something about open seating now. We went to the diner and were promptly seated. That the server never came through the coaches was hardly surprising. With just two servers and seatings every half-hour I just didn’t see where there would be time for anyone to break away to the three coaches to take dinner reservations. On nights like these, the diner could use some more help.
If you have not dined on Amtrak lately, they are still using the paper plates and stainless steel silverware with cloth napkins at some meals. This does not appear to compromise the quality of the food much, although real china would be better.
The on-board personnel of the City of New Orleans in particular was friendly and accommodating. There were coach attendants on the Capitol Limited, but they never seemed to be around much and I had no dealing with them.
New Orleans Union Passenger Terminal has a first class lounge called the Magnolia Room. It is not staffed and you enter it by punching in a code that you must get from the ticket counter. It was a nice lounge, although it does not have enough chairs. Also, if you don’t wish to watch TV you are out of luck.
From my observations, all of the trains were full or near capacity. Although we had sleepers on the City of New Orleans, I heard an announcement as we sat in Chicago that the train was full and that every seat was needed. This was in March on a Monday night.
Presumably, Amtrak would be able to sell more seats during the peak travel season this summer if it has cars to add to the trains.
In summary everything worked out the way that it should. The few glitches that occurred were not significant enough to spoil our enjoyment. We both had a very good trip. This was Amtrak as good as it can be given the resources it has and the conditions under which it must operate these days.
Revelation Video Releases “Amtrak 40′ Program
July 15, 2011The westbound Lake Shore Limited breezes through Berea, Ohio, behind a pair of SDP40F locomotives in the late 1970s. The SDP40F locomotives did not last long at Amtrak. (Photograph by Richard Jacobs)
Amtrak’s 40th anniversary has received much attention this year, largely driven by Amtrak itself with its repainting of at least four Genesis series locomotives into liveries once used by the company and a national touring train that provides exhibits about Amtrak history. The nation’s passenger railroad partnered with Kalmbach Publishing to produce a book and it has also created a DVD. Trains, Passenger Train Journal, Classic Trains, and Railfan and Railroad have all devoted individual issues to Amtrak’s 40th birthday, but otherwise no other videos or books have been released tied to the milestone.
Filling that void is Amtrak 40 1971-2011, a DVD released in late June by Revelation Video, which is owned by Ron McElrath. The video is billed as a four decade retrospective of Amtrak. Although similar in style to programs that Revelation released for Amtrak’s 20th and 30th anniversaries, Amtrak 40 differs in that it is not intended to be a review primarily of what happened at Amtrak over the previous decade.
Before discussing what Amtrak 40 provides, it would be useful to say what it is not. It is not a documentary. The video provides some factual background, but that is not its strength. The program is also not organized in linear fashion. Although it somewhat starts at the beginning and works forward, there is much jumping back and forth in time.
Amtrak 40 presents a series of vignettes that give a sense of what Amtrak has been about and how it has changed during its 40-year existence. Many of these vignettes are short and some have been excerpted from previous Revelation programs pertaining to Amtrak.
Opening with footage of Amtrak heritage locomotive No. 156 in the red-nosed Phase I livery that lasted until about 1976 bringing the Adirondack into Plattsburgh, New York, McElrath, who narrates the video, notes that anniversaries are a time of reflection to think of what has been, what failed to come to be and what might yet come to pass.
With that in mind, the program makes a brief review of the 40 years before the coming of Amtrak. This segment uses vintage movie film of various railroads, some of it black and white and some in color. The contrast in image quality between the old films and modern video is quite stunning. Passenger trains are not the only thing that has changed over the past 80 years.
Amtrak 40 features interesting footage of Amtrak trains during the “rainbow era” when consists featured an array of locomotives and passenger cars still wearing the liveries of their previous owners. These images alone make watching the video worthwhile. Although largely unintentional, there are glimpses at freight equipment that no longer exists and indications of how much the railroad infrastructure and operations have changed. I was struck, for example, by now much vegetation was growing between the rails on the tracks leading into Chicago Union Station in the early 1970s.
The 90-minute video contains ample footage shot from locomotive cabs, primarily the Genesis units that Amtrak uses today. These segments include cab rides on the Downeaster, Cardinal and a Northeast Corridor train heading from New Haven to New York’s Penn Station on a snowy night.
Viewers are also shown various scenes aboard Amtrak trains from the coaches, to the dining car to the sleepers to the kitchen of the diner. Most of these were recorded aboard Superliner-equipped trains. One particular highlight is a ride on a former New York Central open platform observation car on the rear of the Adirondack. With a little imagination you can feel the car rock and roll over the former Delaware & Hudson tracks in upper New York State.
Some viewers might find the fast-paced action a bit disconcerting. At the end of the cab ride on the Downeaster, the viewer is whisked way to the Surf Line between San Diego and Los Angeles and then whipped around the country in rapid succession to view various state-supported services. Although some stories are told deliberately – such as those of the development of the Chicago-St. Louis corridor and the Adirondack – others are more fleeting.
There are a few surprises in the video, including a rapper doing a ditty that pays tribute to the California Zephyr while sitting in the train’s lounge car as it climbs the Colorado Rockies.
To be sure, not all trains that Amtrak operated are shown or mentioned. It is amazing how much history that an operation characterized as having branch line density over most of its skeletal network can make so much history in 40 years. But if you look closely enough, you’ll get a good sense of what has come and gone during that time. Amtrak 40 provides for an enjoyable evening of re-living Amtrak’s past.
Tags: Amtrak 40 video, Amtrak 40th anniversary, Amtrak 40th birthday, Revelation Video, Ron McElrath
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